Laid Back at the Edge of the Black Forest

 

Schwabentor

Last week I mentioned that we went to Freiburg after we had left Colmar. Freiburg - or its full name, Freiburg im Breisgau - lies in the furthest Southwest corner of Germany surrounded by wine country, just a stone's throw from France and Switzerland. It is the fourth largest city of Baden-Württemberg with a population of about 230,000. It has an old and famous university and has a very cosmopolitan atmosphere. Despite its size it has a very laid back feel. It is also a very green city, aiming for sustainability since the early 80s. The surrounding area is characterized by beautiful nature and, of course, its immediate closeness to the Black Forest.

The pictures in this post are from both our trip in May and earlier visits.

The Freiburg Minster (Freiburger Münster) is the city's landmark. The building was started around 1200 in the romanesque style, but then continued in Gothic style. In 1827, it became the seat of the newly erected Catholic Archdiocese of Freiburg and thus a cathedral. It is surrounded by the Münsterplatz where you can buy fresh produce at the farmers market.

Inside, the minster lacks all the overpowering pomp that so many Catholic churches have. It is simple and mostly inornate. The beautiful windows are true eye candy.

I love these door handles which were slightly different on the outside and the inside.

Much of the minster and the city itself was destroyed in the bombing raids of November 1944, but there was one part that survived: the tower.

With a height of 116 meters, it is the only Gothic church tower in Germany that was completed in the Middle Ages (1330) and has lasted until the present. The tower is nearly square at the base, octagonal and tapered above the star gallery at its centre, and above that is the spire with its ornate pinnacle. Its open lattice structure was the first in Gothic architecture. You can climb the tower from where you have a wonderful view over Freiburg and beyond. 

Freiburg's Old Town was completey destroyed during World War II, but has been beautifully restored in the minutest details. Konviktstraße (Konviktstreet - photo below) is regarded as the jewel of Old Town restoration.

You can't tell that these buildings are not the original ones.

 

Look at the red sandstone and the wonderful details.

You can see ornate decorations everywhere if you just look - on grates, lampposts, and of course there are also gorgeous signs.

I first thought that this is Saint Francis of Assisi and loved that the pigeons so fittingly rest on the statue, but I learned that this is a statue of Berthold Schwarz, a Franciscan monk and alchemist of the late 14th century, who is credited with the invention of gunpowder by 15th- through 19th-century European literature.

But the most charming part of Freiburg is the Bächle, little brooks that run through the city's streets for 16 kilometers. The were supposed to provide water to livestock in the Middle Ages. Today, they're a big attraction for kids and adults alike. You can bring little boats or buy them and let them run in the water. There are even races going on, and I think one of them is with rubber ducks. Legend has it that every single person who accidentally stumbles into a Bächle (which is not hard to do, so keep your eyes open!) has to marry a Freiburger.

Last week I wrote that Freiburg has a special meaning for me. Well, first of all, I simply love this city, its cosmopolitan flair, its mediterranean feel, its "multikulti" (multicultural) and its weather - it's said to have the best weather in Germany. In less than an hour you are in France, it takes slightly longer to Switzerland. The Black Forrest is right there with all its possibilities of hiking, biking, climbing and skiing. Schauinsland, a mountain that you can reach via cable car, offers the most stunning views as far as the eye reaches. It's a wonderful wine region called Kaiserstuhl. There are hundreds of kilometers of bike paths in and around Freiburg.

Even the ground looks interesting!

And why does it have such a special meaning for me?

This is the place where I want to live if we ever decide to move back to Germany.

In the evening of our short stay we went to a restaurant where we could sit outside and enjoy a delicious meal. Kaefer had an Aperol Spritz, which is very popular in Germany these days. The Geek and I had a beer and a Bellini. These are already three drinks for Elizabeth and Bleubeard's T Tuesday.

The next morning we had breakfast in a street café right next to the minster. It was a glorious morning with sunshine and pleasant temperatures - only later in the day when we were on our way to Switzerland did the sky darken and send some rain.

We had a typical breakfast with freshly baked rolls, cold cuts, cheese, yogurt and fresh fruit. Plus coffee, of course - more drinks for Elizabeth and Bleubeard!

To those of you who are still with me, thank you.

Last Saturday would have been my Mom's 101st birthday. She passed away 15 years ago. This photo is from 1983 - we were joking with each other and kidding around as we so often did. I miss her so much.