The Grand Staircase

 

After three days in Bryce Canyon and a visit to Kodachrome Basin it was time for us to move on. Highway 12 in Utah is a "scenic byway" that traverses the vast, 1.9 million-acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Before the Highway 12 route was built, traveling through this region was slow, hard work. As late as 1940, some of the places here still recived their mail by mule train for part of the year. The Civilian Conservation Corps had completed part of the road in 1933, allowing vehicle traffic in summertime. But when winter snows closed that road, the only routes between the little towns were wagon trails through the canyons. In 1935 CCC crews began to build more parts of the road - it took five years, backbreaking effort, ingenuity, and many tons of dynamite to complete.

The part of the road after leaving Bryce Canyon and passing the turn-off to Kodachrome Basin is rather tame. It was a grey morning that was reflected in the landscape we passed through.

But soon the landscape changed. You can see where the road winds along the sandstone formations.

The sandstone is rather pale and exhibits interesting texture. A geologist would have a hayday in this environment.

But soon the paleness of the sandstone turned to an increasingly reddish color and the landscape with its canyons, sculpted by the Escalante River, became more dramatic. 

This is some of the wildest lands in the United States. The last area to be mapped in the lower 48 states, this rugged region remains a sparsely roaded frontier. And indeed, we were almost alone on this more than 100 miles (about 160 km) long stretch of road. We have driven this stunningly beautiful byway several times, usually in winter, and every time we feel like the only people in this area. 

It is one of my most favorite and beloved roads in the US.

One feels small and completely insignificant - and honestly, totally dispensable - in this vast wilderness.

I'm always amazed in what hostile places trees and shrubs still grow. It might have been cold this day, but in the summer it's blazingly hot. Not an environment where you think plants would thrive.

But they do.

One of the most thrilling parts of Highway 12 is Hell's Backbone. I've written about it here, coming from the other side at that time. It's just a short stretch of road, less than five miles (8 km), but the land to the left as well as to the right drops down steeply to the canyons beneath it. You virtually drive on the backbone. It's a winding road with sharp curves and the recommended speed is 25mph (40 kmh) - that is fast enough. 

The views from Hell's Backbone are stunning (yes, there are small parking spots along the road).

Pinyon Pines (Pinus edulis) grow everywhere here; the cones are beautiful and some still held a few pine nuts.

After Hell's Backbone the landscape and color changed again. The entire highway passes a rather diverse environment.

Solitary trees - dead or alive - could be seen almost anywhere.

Then the landscape changed again and looked more like a high desert.

I saw a lot of winter remains of plants, but have no idea what they are.

These are some kind of galls I assume.

This elevation looked intriguing.

The road climbed higher and higher and - you guessed it - another change in landscape was waiting for us. This time it was forest.

We had reached the Dixie National Forest. This part of the road was the last part to be completed, in 1985 and it was now possible to drive from Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef National Park in about three hours (without stops). The road is lined with Aspen trees which at this time of year were winter dormant. In the fall, it is a brilliant display of autumn colors.

This part of the Dixie National Forest is called Boulder Mountain, also known as Bluebell Knoll and Boulder Top. It offers the first view of what is to come - Capitol Reef. It always make my heart beat a little bit faster, even though I have seen this view so often. It never ever gets old.

More trees and snow.

Of course we had to take another shadow portrait.

Then we climbed into the car for the last part of this spectacular road, descending to Capitol Reef (Henry Mountains in the background).

Now I need a drink for T Tuesday, otherwise Bleubeard and Elizabeth throw me out. Here's my morning coffee in a mug with California poppies, made by a potter neighbor.