Visiting Viktualienmarkt

 

Today I want to take you on a visit to Viktualienmarkt in München. This (almost) daily food and gourmet market is just around the corner from Marienplatz and as you can see from the picture above, it also serves other items beside food. Food, however, is the main draw.

"Viktualien" is the outdated word for groceries and "Markt" means market - so Viktualienmarkt stands for grocery market. It has been taking place since 1807 when the old city market was moved from Schrannenplatz (today's Marienplatz) to the area between Heilig-Geist Kirche (church of the holy ghost) and Frauenstraße. It's open every day except for Sundays and holidays.

The center of the market is, of course, a beer garden - what else can you expect in the capital of Bavaria?

Right next to the Biergarten we find the Maibaum (maypole). You can find a Maibaum in many parts of Germany as well as in Austria, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Slovenia, but only in Bavaria it is white-blue (the colors of Bavaria). It is a decorated tree or tree trunk that is set up for May 1st. Please note that this Maibaum refers to the Münchner Reinheitsgebot of 1487 (Munich purity law), which was the first food legislation of its kind in the world. It regulated which ingredients were allowed to be used for brewing beer: barley, hops and water. This only applied to beer production in Munich. This is a bit different from the more well-known Deutsches Reinheitsgebot (German purity law) of 1516 which also lists these three ingredients, but later adds yeast as a fourth ingredient. Since 1993, a new, more liberal German beer law has been in effect, but many German brewers still abide by the Reinheitsgebot.

Throughout the Viktualienmarkt there are several fountains, all of them dedicated to Bavarian actors, musicians etc.

Elise-Aulinger-Brunnen

Roider-Jackl-Brunnen

They offer what a true fountain or well should do: potable water. Feel free to fill up your water bottle.

One of Munich's famous food is Weißwurst - I wrote about it here - and of course you can get them in Viktualienmarkt. It's the sausage in the white-blue packages. The Wollwurst next to it is similar to the Weißwurst, but it does not contain parsley.

As I mentioned above, you find more than just food at Viktualienmarkt - for example flowers. 

Since Viktualienmarkt is a big attraction to tourists and locals alike, souvenir shops can be found here as well as items that are cute, but no one really needs.

We did need a little break after all that walking and stopping and walking and stopping. Beer garden or juice booth? We decided to try the juice - left is "Vitaminbombe" (vitamin bomb) and to the right my freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. These are my tickets for Elizabeth and her T Tuesday.

Life is good.

T is for Travel

 

Frauenkirche, München

You may have noticed (or not) that I was missing from blogland for the most part of May. The reason is simple - on May 9th we boarded a plane to München (Munich), Germany to finally see our daughter again. It's been almost two years since she left California in the middle of the pandemic to start her new adventure of living and doing her Masters in Germany. We wanted to see her life in München before she will move to a different city in Germany for her job in research after she will have graduated from LMU (Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität München).

It's difficult to describe my feelings of seeing her again after such a long time (I won't even try). She met us at the airport (we landed in the late afternoon), and after seeing her tiny tiny appartment and checking into our hotel, we did what you do in Munich on a warm night - we vistied a Biergarten (beer garden), the first one of many.

A Biergarten is a truly Bavarian thing - as long as you order a drink there, you can bring your own food. This is the case in all Bavarian beer gardens, but I am not sure whether this is true for the rest of the country - where there aren't that many beer gardens in the first place (maybe Iris has an answer to that). Of course you can also order food in a Biergarten - it is good, but kind of a limited offer and certainly not much for vegetarians and almost nothing if you prefer to eat vegan. A Biergarten is rustic and so is the food.

In the picture I'm holding a glass of dark Weißbier in my hand, and you can also see the top of a glass of Weißbier. If you order just Weißbier, you always get the lighter (in color) version of it, but if you want the darker one (which I prefer), you explicitly have to say so. Bavarian breweries produce excellent Weißbier (in the rest of the country, this is often referred to as Hefeweizen, and it is known under this name in the US as well). We went to so many beer gardens (we avoided indoor dining as much as possible) that it deserves its own blogpost some time later.

Of course we extensively explored the city - more about that in upcoming posts.

We enjoyed the local food (more about that in future posts for Kathy's Food Wednesday), but I really want to emphasize on pretzels - THE Bavarian bread product. You can get pretzels all over the country by now, but I do have to say that the Bavarian ones are extremely tasty. They're called Breze here and Brezel in the others parts of Germany (note the missing l).

This is a particular big, beer garden style Breze that Kaefer is holding here. We don't eat pretzels with mustard - I don't know why this is so popular in the US. It's a disgrace to the pretzel. You eat it with butter or sometime with cream cheese and chives (very popular in München), and the only time you have sweet (!) mustard with it is when you eat Weißwurst, a typical Bavarian sausage that should be eaten before 11:00 am (some places offer them until 2:00 pm. If you see them being offered after noon you know you are in a tourist trap).

Of course it goes down well with a glass of beer or two.

Here, Kaefer is having a Weißbier and I have a Dunkles Halbes. 

Apart from exploring München, we also took the trains to the beautiful lakes in the vicinity of the city and even a bit further away.

Beautiful, quiet Ammersee ...

... famous Starnberger See ...

... and romantic Königssee in the Bavarian Alps.

And yes, we had beer on these trips (Elizabeth, I hope these are enough drinks to qualify for a T post).

Franziskaner Weißbier is one of my favorites, but not the only one. Weißbier has its own special shaped glass - actually, every kind of beer has its own glass. I will go deeper into the "beer science" when I will write about beer gardens.

After about a week or so we left München for a little trip with Kaefer. We first re-visited my old stomping grounds, Tübingen, where I had lived for 22 years and Kaefer was born 24 years ago.

This was on our way to France where we spent a few days in Alsace. When I still lived in Tübingen I often went to Alsace for a long weekend or so. It was wonderful to see all the villages and small towns again. Nothing much seemed to have changed here.

Barr

Kaysersberg

Ribeauvillé

After a short stay in Freiburg, Germany we drove to Switzerland where we visited Luzern (Lucerne) and the Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne), some of the few Swiss places I hadn't been before.

Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)

Through Liechtenstein - a rather odd little state - we crossed into Austria at one of the smallest border crossings I had ever seen.

Vaduz, Liechtenstein

Our final destination was the region of Südtirol (South Tyrol), an autonomous province in the North of Italy right in the midst of the Alps. I had been here as a child and I felt the same awe about this beautiful area again. We visited the Campanile di Curon Venosta Vecchia with its infamous history as well as beautiful Vipiteno or Sterzing as it is called in German. The population in Südtirol speaks predominantly German as a result of its history with Austria. The other two languages spoken here are Ladin (a Romance dialect) and Italian.

Campanile di Curon Venosta Vecchia

Vipiteno / Sterzing

Back in Germany we took the train to Würzburg for a Bartz family gathering over the weekend. Würzburg is two high-speed-train hours North of München, still located in Bavaria in a region called Franken (Franconia). This area produces great wine that is sold in a special type of bottle called "Bocksbeutel". Würzburg is an old city on the river Main, with old bridges, a fortress, a castle and a dome/cathedral - it's a lovely place.

Alte Mainbrücke and Festung Marienberg, Würzburg

The hardest day was the day after - when we had to say goodbye to Kaefer, not knowing when we will see her next. After we had landed in San Francisco and wanted to drive home, our car wouldn't start. Just the thing you want after an almost 12-hour flight! We called AAA and thankfully after only 20 minutes roadside assistance arrived and jump started the car. It took another 90 minutes to drive home - we were done and just sunk into blissful sleep in our own bed.

Unpacking the suitcase the following morning was pure joy!