The Grand Staircase

 

After three days in Bryce Canyon and a visit to Kodachrome Basin it was time for us to move on. Highway 12 in Utah is a "scenic byway" that traverses the vast, 1.9 million-acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Before the Highway 12 route was built, traveling through this region was slow, hard work. As late as 1940, some of the places here still recived their mail by mule train for part of the year. The Civilian Conservation Corps had completed part of the road in 1933, allowing vehicle traffic in summertime. But when winter snows closed that road, the only routes between the little towns were wagon trails through the canyons. In 1935 CCC crews began to build more parts of the road - it took five years, backbreaking effort, ingenuity, and many tons of dynamite to complete.

The part of the road after leaving Bryce Canyon and passing the turn-off to Kodachrome Basin is rather tame. It was a grey morning that was reflected in the landscape we passed through.

But soon the landscape changed. You can see where the road winds along the sandstone formations.

The sandstone is rather pale and exhibits interesting texture. A geologist would have a hayday in this environment.

But soon the paleness of the sandstone turned to an increasingly reddish color and the landscape with its canyons, sculpted by the Escalante River, became more dramatic. 

This is some of the wildest lands in the United States. The last area to be mapped in the lower 48 states, this rugged region remains a sparsely roaded frontier. And indeed, we were almost alone on this more than 100 miles (about 160 km) long stretch of road. We have driven this stunningly beautiful byway several times, usually in winter, and every time we feel like the only people in this area. 

It is one of my most favorite and beloved roads in the US.

One feels small and completely insignificant - and honestly, totally dispensable - in this vast wilderness.

I'm always amazed in what hostile places trees and shrubs still grow. It might have been cold this day, but in the summer it's blazingly hot. Not an environment where you think plants would thrive.

But they do.

One of the most thrilling parts of Highway 12 is Hell's Backbone. I've written about it here, coming from the other side at that time. It's just a short stretch of road, less than five miles (8 km), but the land to the left as well as to the right drops down steeply to the canyons beneath it. You virtually drive on the backbone. It's a winding road with sharp curves and the recommended speed is 25mph (40 kmh) - that is fast enough. 

The views from Hell's Backbone are stunning (yes, there are small parking spots along the road).

Pinyon Pines (Pinus edulis) grow everywhere here; the cones are beautiful and some still held a few pine nuts.

After Hell's Backbone the landscape and color changed again. The entire highway passes a rather diverse environment.

Solitary trees - dead or alive - could be seen almost anywhere.

Then the landscape changed again and looked more like a high desert.

I saw a lot of winter remains of plants, but have no idea what they are.

These are some kind of galls I assume.

This elevation looked intriguing.

The road climbed higher and higher and - you guessed it - another change in landscape was waiting for us. This time it was forest.

We had reached the Dixie National Forest. This part of the road was the last part to be completed, in 1985 and it was now possible to drive from Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef National Park in about three hours (without stops). The road is lined with Aspen trees which at this time of year were winter dormant. In the fall, it is a brilliant display of autumn colors.

This part of the Dixie National Forest is called Boulder Mountain, also known as Bluebell Knoll and Boulder Top. It offers the first view of what is to come - Capitol Reef. It always make my heart beat a little bit faster, even though I have seen this view so often. It never ever gets old.

More trees and snow.

Of course we had to take another shadow portrait.

Then we climbed into the car for the last part of this spectacular road, descending to Capitol Reef (Henry Mountains in the background).

Now I need a drink for T Tuesday, otherwise Bleubeard and Elizabeth throw me out. Here's my morning coffee in a mug with California poppies, made by a potter neighbor.

Faces of Halloween

This sweet family - our neighbors just a few houses down the street - are always my favorite trick-or-treaters. This year I almost missed them because the Geek opened the door and I only realized who it was after they had already crossed the street to get to the next home. But I did caught up to them and was able to take the annual Halloween picture of them.

We had our good friends Bim and Patti over for Halloween - not for dinner, but for "snacks". We had a lot to eat. This was the cheese and prosciutto board.

Can you see what the board represents? Yes, the state of California.

I had baked my "famous" whole wheat bread to go with it. There were also smoked salmon, roasted eggplant and meatballs.

Here we are around the table, having a wonderful time together. Bim is German, Patti is American and our conversations are always a hilarious and slightly chaotic mix of Germish or Denglish (take your pick, both is the same). 

And something to laugh for you - a staring contest between Kibeau and a visiting raccoon one night this week., taken with our outdoor nighttime camera.

All these lovely faces are for Nicole's Friday Face Off.

Kodachrome Basin

 

Table Cliff Plateau

On Christmas Day, while we were in Bryce Canyon, we decided to go to Kodachrome Basin State Park. We went there once several years ago and liked it very much, so we thought it might be nice to visit again. We spent the morning in Bryce Canyon where it had snowed over night and was very cold. Then we hopped into the car and drove the 22 miles to Kodachrome Basin. From the road - scenic Highway 12 - we had a good view of majestic Table Cliff Plateau (photo above). Again, this is a mix of photos taken with my big camera and my phone.

Very soon, we enjoyed the first view of Kodachrome Basin.

We had stopped to take a couple pictures, and when we turned around we also had a lovely view of Bryce Canyon. As you can see, we had descended considerably - all the snow was gone and it was significantly less cold.

The light patterns were unpredictable. Clouds raced across the sky and they often made taking good photos rather challenging. 

This impressive wall changed its color with the racing clouds. I found it fascinating.

The park displays several layers of sandstone rock, all in different colors. If you are thinking of Kodak when you see these colors and contrasts, you are not mistaken. It was the National Geographic Society who in 1949, with consent from Kodak Film Corp., named the park Kodachrome.

We enjoyed hiking along the slickrock. 

The views were stunning and, best of all, we were almost the only people there. During the entire time we spent in the park, we saw two more couples and a lone ranger. No one else. After the crowds in Bryce Canyon this was bliss.

Of course we had to take a selfie.

The texture of the rock in some places was very interesting.

More slickrock and junipers throughout the park.

To my delight there were dead and crooked trees. I would have been very disappointed if I hadn't seen any.

This one was my clear favorite.

Please don't ask me what these flowers/plants are, I have no idea. If someone knows, please let me know. I just liked the look of them.

Finally, we decided to take the dirt road out to Grosvenor Arch, which we had done during our first visit as well. It's only another 10 miles.

The views of Kodachrome Basin and Bryce Canyon in the distance are quite spectacular.

However, after a few miles the arroyo had flooded the road and there was still water standing.

To the left and the right it looked like this.

We debated for a while whether we should try and drive through it - we had done things like that before - but on this trip we were experiencing some minor trouble with one of our tires and finally decided not to risk it. We certainly didn't want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere on Christmas Day.

So we turned around and drove back.

There were still many opportunities to stop and admire the scenery. The Geek though thought it funnier to take a picture of me while I was busy taking a photo with my phone.

And this was my photo. Much nicer.

On our way back we passed these beautiful windmills, so decorative with Bryce Canyon as a backdrop.

Across the street cows were grazing near an old shed. 

We were back in Bryce Canyon just in time for a rather dramatic sunset. We walked up to Inspiration Point - this time I made it to the top as well. Very slowly with many breaks so I could cough and catch my breath (I really don't recommend a nasty cough in thin air!), but I made it and it was so worth it.

After this long day the fish and beer tasted especially good. Of course the beer is for T Tuesday over at Bleubeard and Elizabeth.